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Wednesday, September 23, 2009

Sage and Tomato Soup

Tomato-Sage-Soup-1.jpg

This blog has ruined me. Forever.

Just this week I realized what my family has been accusing me of for years is actually true. I am a food snob.

Not the Beluga-Caviar-or-Bust kind of food snob, but a food snob nonetheless. The facts are indisputable. I am a Fresh-or-Forget-It, Real-or-Reject-It kind of food snob.

I've been denying this allegation, preferring instead to call myself merely "discerning" or "discriminating". After all, I don't go weak in the knees for foie gras or pine for white truffle oil. I failed the Cheese or Font test (Thanks to Clare and Phil for sending me the link to this ego-crushing challenge), and couldn't care less about sushi.

But over the past three years, as I explored food for this blog, the culinary bar has crept ever higher. Without me even noticing. And this week I could no longer deny it.

My gastronomic reality check? Tomato and Sage Soup. I made it a lot in university as an antidote to my draughty apartment. And with the autumn nip in the air, I thought hot soup would be the perfect way to use up some of my self-replenishing tomatoes. And a bit of my rambunctious sage.

But when I pulled out the recipe — which I hadn't made since graduation — I was horrified to see it used no tomatoes whatsoever. None. Instead, my "homemade" tomato soup called for 3 cups of stock and a large tin of tomato paste.

How could this be?

Seems I, not the recipe, have changed. Sure, the Old Me made her own granola and yogurt, but she also bought bargain brand margarine and lived on popcorn when cramming for exams. The Old Me would have been slurping that cheap and convenient soup before the New Me was finished slicing the vine-ripe tomatoes. Much as the Old Me loved that soup, The New Me just couldn't bring herself to make, let alone blog about, tarted up tinned goods.

So it's official. I am a food snob.

And this blog is to blame.

With tomato and sage on the brain, I turned to John Bishop for inspiration. His book Fresh: Seasonal Recipes Made with Local Foods (Douglas & McIntyre, 2007) won Gold at last year's Canadian Culinary Book Awards. It contains a recipe for tomato soup complete with sage biscuits. Like my student version, it has sherry, onions and garlic, but the similarities end there.

Below is my variation of Bishop's blissful soup. Sue, it takes a lot longer to make than the slap-dash tomato-paste version. But while my taste buds have grown, so have my multi-tasking skills. While the tomatoes roasted, I answered emails. And as the soup gently simmered, I folded laundry. In the end? I got some work done and a pot of delicious soup as a reward.

My only complaint? This dish cries out for a hunk of aged cheddar and a thick slab of homemade bread. I had neither on hand. Just like when I was a student.

Tomato-Sage-Soup-s.jpg

Do you look over old recipes and cringe? How has your palate changed? Or am I the only one whose tastes have morphed?

Roasted Tomato and Sage Soup
Makes 4 servings

Printable Recipe

Ingredients

  • 2 pounds ripe tomatoes, halved
  • 1 medium onion, quartered
  • 2 cloves garlic, whole
  • 2 Tbsp olive oil or canola oil
  • sea salt
  • 3 cups chicken stock (or vegetable stock)
  • 1/3 cup dry sherry
  • 1 tbsp honey (or more to taste)
  • fresh ground black pepper
  • 10 sage leaves, roughly chopped

Optional Garnish

  • creme fraiche (see, I AM a food snob!) or cream

Instructions

  1. Preheat oven to 450°F. Line a roasting pan with the tomatoes, onion and garlic. Drizzle with oil and sprinkle with salt. Roast for 30 to 45 minutes or until cooked.
  2. Put roasted tomatoes, onions and garlic in a saucepan. Add stock, sherry and honey. Bring to a boil. Immediately reduce to a simmer and cook 30 minutes.
  3. Add sage leaves and allow to simmer 10 more minutes.
  4. Using an immersion blender, puree until smooth.
  5. Strain through a fine sieve to remove seeds and skins.
  6. Season with more salt if necessary and freshly ground black pepper.
  7. Garnish with creme fraiche or cream, if desired


18 comments:

Tiffany Lange said...

This will be the perfect way to finish up the tomatoes I still have from the garden!
There's nothing wrong with that kind of food snobbery Charmain :)

Jill U Adams said...

I'm with you Charmian. When you use fresh-picked vegetables, you can hardly go wrong. I'm learning to trust them to be delicious, without help from sauces or spices (my crutches in former days).

Can't wait to try your soup recipe -- I've got loads of sage growing in my garden.

Daniel said...

You're way too hard on yourself. Shuddering at tomato soup made from canned tomato paste is simple good taste.

However, if you demanded a tomato soup recipe made only with $4 (each!) heirloom tomatoes.... THEN you'd be a food snob.

Dan
Casual Kitchen

danamccauley said...

So, you say that your a food snob like it's a problem - for me it's the solution!

Cheryl Arkison said...

I am the same way! But we knew we were in the right company, right? except I lived on grapes and cheese toast when cramming for exams.

FRANCESCA said...

This soup sounds really good. I have a friend who makes roasted red pepper soup, so there's something to be said about the'roasting.'Not an expert, but it does give that special flavour.

There's nothing wrong with enjoying (eating or making or being a food snob) great food with quality ingredients, in fact I believe it's the only way.

Most of my favorite 'old recipes' are traditional old family ones so if I've morphed it's by trying to cut out some of the fat in them without sacrificing flavour. But I make these recipes occasionally so I don't bother too much. Gotta use butter! :) When I make my grandmothers meatball recipe I bake them in the oven instead of pan frying.

Frugal Kiwi said...

The same thing is happening to me even as we speak, Charmain. It was definitely creeping in, but now I've got a food blog, well, look out.

My current pet peeve is recipes that call for tinned cream of whatever soups. I'm a Southerner, so I ate that stuff growing up, but now? No way.

Cheryl @ 5secondrule said...

I'm impressed that you even made soup while in university. When I was in college, I just heated up a can of Campbell's! I felt superior when I mixed in a can of milk instead of water, too, like, "I'm using milk! That must mean I'm COOKING."

Angelique from Bitchin' Lifestyle said...

GUILTY! I used to make "home made" pasta sauce back in the day, and surprise - it called for tomato paste. EW.

Anyways... this looks yummy... especially since summer is SO over here in Montreal!

Errin said...

I just found your blog on tastespotting and I really enjoyed this post. I feel the same way, and find myself enforcing the new rules onto my flatmate (ahem, boyfriend). I would like to think that that you and I haven't changed...we were just much poorer in our younger days and had to be inventive with our cooking :)

Julie said...

This looks fantastic! I love homemade tomato soup. And this time of year I want to put away as many tomatoes as I can in as many ways as I can! thanks!

One of the Woodside Joneses said...

I think 'snob' is the wrong word. Too 'snobby'. How about 'enthusiast' or 'fanatic'? Don't hate me because I use tinned tomatoes (but I do buy the San Marzanos). ;-D

Sheepishly, Jill

Christie's Corner said...

Nice to know I'm not alone in this.

Tiffany, this soup did my tomatoes justice. If you try it, I hope you like it.

Jill, I agree. As my ingredients get better the less I use "crutches" -- although I still love spices.

Daniel, I'm not into the ultra expensive tomatoes, but would love to grow heirlooms next year. I just can't believe I used to embrace a soup made with tomato paste!!

Dana, I like your attitude!

Cheryl A, grapes and cheese toast? Far too healthy for cramming. :-)

Francesca, I love roasted red pepper soup. Yes, the roasting does bring out flavours. And meatballs in the oven is a smart way to reduce fat without sacrificing flavour -- all a matter of balance isn't it?

Frugal Kiwi, watch out. You will never look at food the same way again. As for the condensed soup recipes? I actually used to make them and (gulp) LIKED them. Now? I can taste the salt and preservative.

Cheryl@5Second, I cooked a lot in university because it saved money. I had my own apartment, so it wasn't hard.

Angelique, glad to see we are guilty together. I don't mind using the odd bit of tomato paste, but in lieu or tomatoes?? That's just crazy.

Errin, I'll take your generous out on this. Yes, I was poor and innovative. That's it!

Julie, how do you put away your tomatoes? I'm open to suggestions!

Jill, I use tinned tomatoes, too. In the winter you have to since the fresh ones have the texture of soap and the taste of cardboard. You're right that the San Marzono are the best, but not all supermarkets carry them.

Vivian said...

Let's not be too hard on the old tins of tomato paste! Generally canned produce is picked at its prime to insure the best flavour. Granted, whole tomatoes are the best quality (canned) but paste has been shown to have the highest content and quality of lycopene. Not everyone has the luxury of even being able to access or afford a tin of tomato paste. Is love to make my own San Marzano sauce, unfortunately they are still green on the vine and we are especting frost tonight. That said, and sorry to be so long-winded but during the 70s, one of our favorite party snacks was triskets topped with a combo of cubed orange cheddar, diced onion and mayonnaise, then broiled! Yikes! Damn tasty though, if you didn't worry about the salt and fat!

Vivian said...

Oops, pardon the spelling boo-boos. Should have "previewed", sorry.

Christie's Corner said...

Vivian, you raise some good points. Yes, tinned tomatoes are picked at their prime, so are quite flavourful. And I didn't know about tomato paste being the highest in lycopene. Thanks for this information.

I used to eat Triscuits with melted cheese, too. Even without mayonnaise there was more than enough fat!

For the record, I don't hate tomato paste. I use it occasionally for a flavour boost. My objection was using it as a total replacement for tomatoes.

Thanks again for being your wise balanced view.

KATIE said...

I made your soup after I saw it on foodgawker and it was so easy and delicious! I tried 3 different varieties of tomatoes from my garden and the farmer's market to see if it made a difference and each one was a totally different soup. My freezer is now full of homemade soup for the winter. Thanks. (oh and I made a blog entry about it. I'm not a food blogger but I do love to cook so once in awhile a food entry get's in there. http://giraffesandcandy.blogspot.com/2009/09/three-tomatoes-one-way.html)

Christie's Corner said...

Katie, thanks so much for taking the time to post your results. I'm thrilled you like the soup. I had no idea different tomatoes would make different tasting soups, but it makes sense when I think about it.

Thanks also for blogging about your experience. I'm heading to your blog right now to read all about it.

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